Drift Essentials Guide
Division Point
The above-listed mods will get most weekend warriors to the state of nirvana that is drifting. From this point, there are additional stiffening processes that can be employed on the chassis, body or suspension. The path separates here for Corolla and 240 owners. With their independent rear ends, 240 owners need to address their geometry out back. Adjustable control arms are needed to combat nasty toe and camber issues that come with a lowered suspension. The AE86 camp is free to go with more suspension or additional chassis stiffening in the form of a simple strut tower bar, anti-sway bars, chassis bracing and stitch welding (which will also benefit 240s).
The above-listed mods will get most weekend warriors to the state of nirvana that is drifting. From this point, there are additional stiffening processes that can be employed on the chassis, body or suspension. The path separates here for Corolla and 240 owners. With their independent rear ends, 240 owners need to address their geometry out back. Adjustable control arms are needed to combat nasty toe and camber issues that come with a lowered suspension. The AE86 camp is free to go with more suspension or additional chassis stiffening in the form of a simple strut tower bar, anti-sway bars, chassis bracing and stitch welding (which will also benefit 240s).
Psychedelic one-liners aside, a limited-slip differential (LSD) is the most critical ingredient to a satisfying drift experience. The LSD keeps both drive tires hookin' and cookin' as the car struggles for grip. When it comes to the venerable AE86 Corolla (shameless plug: pick up the current Project Car to see a very cool SR5-to-GT-S conversion and more detailed explanations about why you should be looking to invest in some of the parts mentioned here) or any older standard-LSD-equipped car, Drift-Office's Nathan Robinson says "be wary of that stock LSD". Drift-Office is a tuning shop in Auburn, Washington that naturally has a soft spot for the AE86, and is quick to point out that Hachi Rokus have 25 years on the clock and their unsuspecting LSDs will quickly become shrapnel when put under the rigors of serious drifting. The LSD has to be up to the task. A 1.5-way LSD is good, especially if the car is going to be doing some grip along with the slip. If you plan to do some road circuit runs, time attacks of the like the 1.5 is the way to go because it won't lock-up during off-throttle situations. A 2.0-way unit is the best solution for strictly drifting as it keeps the drive wheels locked all the time.
Along with the usual lower center of gravity, coilovers provide stiffness in the suspension. Body roll is the archenemy of drifters and the ability to swap springs on a coilover suspension ensures the chassis can be stiffened to drift levels. Tuning the set-up is also important. You need to dial in as much stiffness as possible without going too far; at which point the car will understeer, and understeer is body roll's evil cohort. Think about it: if the front end of the car is plowing, how can you get the tail to swing out?
No matter which arena of motorsports you look at, the magic happens where the rubber meets the road. As mentioned above, the contact patch is important for drifting but there is another tire factor: the sidewall. You don't want your tires to fold under or roll over on the sidewall at a critical juncture. This results in understeer, which sours the punch. Drift-Office says the maximum sidewall is 50-series on a Hachi Roku and 40- to 45-series on a 240SX.